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Care at a Glance

⭐ Difficulty: Easy
☀️ Light: Low to bright indirect
💧 Water: Every 1–2 weeks
🌡️ Temp: 60–85°F
🐾 Pet Safe: No ⚠️
🌫️ Humidity: Low–Medium (40–60%)

Pothos Care Guide

Epipremnum aureum

By Learn Plant Care·Last reviewed: 2026-06-16·Toxicity verified via ASPCA
Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) in a pot near a window
Pothos — plant photo

Quick Answer

Pothos is nearly impossible to kill, but the #1 way people mess it up is letting it dry out completely for weeks, then panicking and soaking it—this cycle causes root rot and yellow leaves. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, and you're golden.

Difficulty

Easy

☀️Light

Low to bright indirect

💧Watering

Every 1–2 weeks

🌫️Humidity

Low–Medium (40–60%)

🌡️Temperature

60–85°F

📈Growth Rate

Fast

Toxicity

⚠️ Toxic to Cats⚠️ Toxic to Dogs⚠️ Toxic to Humans

Source: ASPCA Animal Poison Control

Watering

Summer

Every 1–2 weeks

Winter

Every 2–3 weeks

Method: Water when top inch of soil is dry

Water when the top inch of soil is dry—stick your finger in and check. In summer that's usually every 1–2 weeks; in winter, every 2–3 weeks. The frequency depends on your pot size, soil type, and how warm your home is, so adjust based on what you see, not a rigid schedule. If the leaves start drooping, water immediately. If they're turning yellow and soft, you've been watering too much—dial it back and let the soil dry out more between waterings.

Light Requirements

Low to bright indirect

Pothos does genuinely well in dim corners where other plants would sulk. That said, it'll grow faster and fuller with more light—an east-facing windowsill or a spot 3–5 feet from a south window is ideal. Avoid direct sun, which washes out the leaves and can scorch them.

Soil & Potting

Soil: Standard potting mix with perlite

Pot: Any pot with drainage holes

Temperature & Humidity

Temperature: 6085°F (1629°C)

Humidity: Low–Medium (40–60%)

Fertilizing

Frequency: Monthly in growing season; optional in winter

Type: Balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer, half strength

Common Problems

Yellow leaves

Overwatering is the culprit 90% of the time. Yellowing usually starts on the lower or older leaves first, and the soil will feel soggy or smell sour. Pull back on watering and let the top 2 inches of soil dry out completely before watering again. If the stems feel mushy at the base or the soil smells like rot, unpot the plant, trim off any black or brown mushy roots with clean scissors, and repot into fresh dry potting mix.

Drooping stems and limp leaves

This is underwatering—the leaves go limp and slightly papery, but the soil will be bone dry. Water thoroughly until it drains freely from the drainage hole, then empty the saucer after 30 minutes. The plant should perk back up within 2–6 hours. Going forward, check the soil every 4–5 days rather than on a fixed schedule.

Pale or washed-out leaves

Too much direct sun. The leaves lose contrast and can develop dry, bleached patches—different from the soft yellowing of overwatering. Move the pot to a spot with bright indirect light, at least 2–3 feet from a south- or west-facing window instead of right on the sill. New growth coming in after the move will have better color.

Leggy, sparse growth with big gaps between leaves

Not enough light. Pothos stretches toward any light source it can find, producing long stems with leaves spaced far apart. Move it to within 5 feet of a window. You can cut the leggy vines back by half in early spring to encourage bushier regrowth—new shoots will sprout from just below each cut point.

Propagation

Cut 4–6 inch stems just below a node (the bump where leaves attach), and place them in a glass of water. Change the water every few days to keep it fresh. Roots usually show up in 1–2 weeks. Once roots are ½ inch long, pot them in soil and they'll establish quickly. The trick people miss: don't wait for a massive root system before potting. Those water roots are tender and can struggle when switched to soil suddenly. Pot them with just ½–1 inch of roots and they'll adapt and grow proper soil roots. Alternatively, stick cuttings directly into moist potting soil—they root just fine, though water propagation is more forgiving and fun to watch.

Seasonal Care Calendar

🌸 Spring

Start fertilizing again—once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half the recommended strength is plenty. This is also the best time to take stem cuttings for propagation, since the plant roots fast and bounces back quickly. If your pothos got leggy over winter, trim it now.

☀️ Summer

The plant is in full growth mode and needs water more frequently—check the soil every week. This is the best time to train vines on a wall, moss pole, or trellis if you want a fuller look. The plant responds fast to any changes you make, so it's low-risk to experiment.

🍂 Fall

Stop fertilizing as growth naturally slows. If the plant got long and leggy, trim it back before winter. The cuttings can go straight into water to propagate, giving you free new plants.

❄️ Winter

Water less frequently since the plant isn't actively growing. Light is weaker this time of year, so move your pothos closer to a window if you can. Skip fertilizer entirely until you see new growth returning in late winter or early spring.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I water pothos?

Summer: every 1–2 weeks. Winter: every 2–3 weeks. But ignore the schedule and check the soil instead—stick your finger an inch down, and if it's dry, water. If it's still moist, wait another few days. Temperature, humidity, pot size, and soil type all shift the timeline significantly. A pothos in a 4-inch terracotta pot on a warm windowsill can dry out in 5 days, while one in a 10-inch plastic pot in a cool corner might go 3 weeks between waterings.

Can pothos grow in water permanently?

Yes, completely. Many people keep pothos in bottles or vases with just water and they do great long-term. Change the water every 1–2 weeks to keep it oxygenated, and add a small amount of liquid fertilizer—about ¼ of the label dose—once a month during spring and summer so the plant gets nutrients it'd normally pull from soil. Water-grown pothos tends to stay slightly smaller than soil-grown ones, but it's a totally legitimate way to grow it and nearly eliminates the risk of overwatering.

Why are my pothos leaves turning yellow?

Overwatering 90% of the time—the roots sit in wet soil, rot, and the plant responds by dropping yellow leaves, usually starting from the bottom. Check the soil: if it's soggy or smells off, stop watering and let it dry out completely before watering again, only when the top inch is dry. If the stems feel mushy at the base, repot into fresh dry mix and trim any rotted roots first. On the rare occasion watering isn't the issue, low light or a lack of fertilizer during the growing season can also cause yellowing, but fix watering habits before assuming either of those.

How do I make my pothos fuller and bushier?

Pinch off the growing tips of the vines—this stops them elongating and triggers the plant to branch out sideways instead. Do this in spring or early summer when growth is active. You can also cut back long stems to half their length; new shoots will sprout from just below the cut. More light makes the single biggest difference overall—a pothos getting good indirect light fills in naturally, while one in a dark corner will always stretch no matter how much you prune it.

Is pothos safe for cats?

No. Pothos is toxic to cats and dogs—chewing the leaves releases calcium oxalate crystals that cause mouth irritation, drooling, and vomiting. Keep it out of reach on a high shelf or in a hanging planter, especially if your cat likes to climb. If your cat chews on it, rinse their mouth with water and call your vet. If you want a trailing plant that's genuinely pet-safe, peperomia, spider plant, and Boston fern are all good alternatives with a similar low-maintenance vibe.